Not sure this will work, but I cut multiple layers of manila folder strips, one wrap of plastic wrap, taped back to the trunk lid to form a shape to reconstruct the fender edge of the gap to give about a 3/16" gap.. After this picture, I scuffed up the adjoining surfaces and the inside of the drip rail so the Roberlo would have a good base.
Here is another tip. When you apply any filler whether it's epoxy or "single stage" (the pink stuff) be SURE it is thoroughly "cured"/"dried" before any primer or paint. I ALWAYS use a heat gun after I think it should be cured, maybe an hour later, to heat the surface up pretty dang hot, then let it cool back to ambient temperature, and you will never have any "bubbles" pop up later. Heating the surface assures that there is no longer any solvents/moisture in the material. I learned that from the work when I removed the 'FORD" trim on the front of the hood.
Final coat of Roberlo and sanded to complete the peaking of the hood. Although it looks a tad crooked near the rear of the hood, it's not. It's an optical illusion ! hahaha ..... It only took about two weeks, (off and on), 20 applications, sanding, scuffing, priming, eyeballing, measuring, pop strings, marking pens, and all kinds of other efforts to make the dang peak come out straight and consistent "peak/height" the full length. Whew....Be sure to check out "painting the car" for the finished product... turned out pretty dang nice.
Removed the hole for the original antenna mount. Since I already had insulation under this area and wiring behind that, I cut a piece of leather from my welding apron, rolled it up, stuck it down in the hole and unrolled it to protect things while I welded the hole up. No fires ! Not even any smoke.
It's really hard to see whether the peaking is straight and consistent all the way down the hood with a flat finish on it, so I decided to wet the hood down and put a layer of plastic wrap so the surface would be more shiny. Didn't help a great deal but better. She looks pretty straight at this point.
Same joints - the one on the left has a fresh coat of primer on it, since it turned out so smooth I didn't need to use the "pink stuff" to finish out the surface. When you use the "pink stuff", it should "flash" for a loooong time (I allow 24 hours) so that it doesn't bubble up when primer is applied, as solvents will get trapped and when it warms up, it will bubble just like boiling water.
Ain't this just great? Well, it's probably good that it happened now (I guess when I welded in the gas filler door assembly, and not after paint.) The fender must have shrunk or warped or something.....a little bit, and the spot welds inside the fender at this joint didn't hold. I think the problem is/was that the "other builder" did not spot weld the fenders on the outside after cutting off the factory bead. Dumbass. Give me that grinder.............
Got a surprise when sanding the roof to prep for primer. The roof surface in the area above and behind the passenger side back window had some ripples in the metal. It was only on this side and not the other..Used my body hammer to straighten things up, but necessary to throw some Roberlo body gooop on it.
