Prepping and Installing Engine
Read More
While checking the fit of the engine mounts, I discovered that EVERY ONE of the six bolt holes/nuts were stripped out. So had to buy a 3/8 heli-coil kit to replace the threads. These will be turned in about another 1/8 inch. At first I thought the nut holes were metric, but after buying one M10-1.5 bolt, it was obvious that the nuts were just stripped out. Retapping those holes takes an old man's wrists to the cleaners.
Though I had painted everything with "truck bed liner", I discovered that the roughness held dust and dirt something awful. So I repainted all the "exposed" parts of the frame with high gloss high temperature black glossy engine paint.
Touched up the paint on the front half of the transmission with Ford Red Metallic paint. Can't see the top near the rear, so didn't spend any time on that part.
Getting ready to take the engine off the stand and mate up with the transmission with the Caddie Crane.
Got the transmission coupled up with the engine and testing the lift capabilities of my Caddie Crane. Taped up a paper/cloth transmission pan protection. Hate scratches. Was nearly surprised that the Caddie Crane could handle it. About 700 pounds.
Gettin' her close to setting. Note the yellow "mosquito bands". Mosquitos have been AWFUL lately. Don't mind the belly. haha
Phil the neighbor took this one. You can see the Caddie Crane and cables that are tied to the rear seat mounts to take the torque off the trailer hitch.
This is Phil, my neighbor who has been very helpful when I need an "extra hand". Cool guy. I DID clean off the oil pan where I got a little blue overspray on it...when I touched up the block. Towel and craft paper taped over the Trans pan. Hate scratches.
Sliding into place.
TOOO Purdy !
5/29/2014 - Set the completed engine and transmission back into/onto the frame ! A big day ! Masked off the brake line and fuel line to repaint the front part of the frame.
Things are coming together ! Hooked up the passenger's side brake line in advance 'cause there'd be no way to get it installed later in one piece. DAMN this is purdy!
Think I'm going to have to lose the fuel pump. You can see the Jag rear end install in this long shot. Lots of stuff back there.. UPDATE: I rotated the fuel pump cover, and it fits now.
NEARLY everything worked out perfectly, except that the fuel pump outlet fitting hits the frame. Actually, I could have rotated (update - that's what I eventually did) the diaphragm mount on the bottom of the fuel pump, but the body would be too close for comfort to the frame. UPDATE: The electric fuel pump that I later installed would vapor lock as it was too far from and above the fuel tank. So I removed it and put the mechanical back in and now it all works perfectly. I have a brand new inline electric fuel pump for sale!
Had to trim off a little bit of the top of the passenger's side upper control arm to clear the header. Hope the passenger side wheel doesn't fall off. If you reviewed all the build pictures, you may recall that I chose the LOW MOUNT hole on the engine mount
Parts going on to verify clearances. Am a bit concerned about the distributor hitting the firewall, now..........grrrrrr.
All the prefabrication worked out perfectly. It gets very busy down there on the driver's side, but everything clears. You can see where I trimmed off a little of the transmission ear for the header connection.
DAMN that's purdy. Little bitty GM power steering pump from a Pontiac Sunbird.
Decided to get an electric fuel pump, as the mechanical ended up about 1/8 inch from the frame. Got a cover plate for the mount. (See update in picture #63) Look close and you will see a "starter heat reflective mat" on the starter and the "pre-wiring" of the starter. 6/6/2014
Painted and mounted the shift linkage, exhaust is all done and hooked up. Check out the "cut-outs" with flange connector. Got some electric two position butterfly valves with dash mounted switch to open and close them at will.. gonna be fun..
Just about there...
Uh-oh. Well, no problem. Yesterday 6/14/2014, I got the body and frame all lined up and set, and it clears by about 1/2 inch, and can still remove the distributor without hitting, after removing the cap and rotor, really.....
Though I had painted everything with "truck bed liner", I discovered that the roughness held dust and dirt something awful. So I repainted all the "exposed" parts of the frame with high gloss high temperature black glossy engine paint.