Wiring the Car
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Battery, isolation solenoid, starter solenoid, and fuse block all in the trunk. Various bundles (dash, engine area, doors,) not yet run.
Wired up. White covered thing is 70 amp fuse between the alternator output to the battery. Small holding relay to the left of the starter solenoid, which is the top one - holds the isolation solenoid in while running. Yellow rolled wires go to "door circuits", Green roll is tail lights and fuel level sending unit. When the key is turned on, the lower Ford solenoid is engaged, powering up the fuse block and all circuits. When the starter button is pushed (I kept the stock dash push button, just cause I wanted too), the upper Ford solenoid is energized and it pulls in the starter. That way, there is no large cable that remains hot while driving. All the starter cables are 1/0.
Getting bundles routed to where they should be. LOTS of wires.
Bundle separation. You can see the A/C - heater system under the dash. It's mounted as high as it will go, still sticks down more than I'd like. Oh well. You can see the floor cutout where I replaced the 700R4 transmission cooler lines.
Bundles over the rear wheel well, down into channel under the door to the front of the car. The 1/0 welding cable turns under the floorboard through a 3/4" PVC conduit to the starter.
Battery box with hold down studs through the floor and a vent tube to under the car.
UPDATE: this has been rewired per the latest wiring diagram below...............I added a third pusher fan for the transmission cooler, as I had a temperature 4th gear shift problem, and added an electronic sequencer controller for the other two puller fans..Everything after this sentence has been changed...................Two speed fan control box ready to install. Three relays to put the fans in series for low speed and in parallel for high speed. Added a fuel pump relay on the wall of the box later. However, the electric fuel pump has been abandoned and I went back to the stock engine mounted mechanical fuel pump. However I added a momentary switch under the dash and also an electric fuel pump mounted back by the gas tank so that if I have vapor lock with this shity gas we have now I just push that button and hold it for a while to get the carburetor primed. Problem solved.
UPDATE: Added a third pusher fan at the lower left as a pusher fan to improve air flow with separate adjustable temperature controller. .........................All parts sandblasted, painted, and assembled. Will check the clearance between the OPEN flap condition and belts/pulleys before I decide to make the flaps TWO piece or ONE piece each. The holes on the lower left are not in a rectangular pattern because there is an angle iron (modified) support that is in the way of the flap there.
Update - this wiring system has been ABANDONED and ultimately modified per REVISOIN 5 - FURTHER DOWN IN THIS GALLERY. ORIGINAL POST FOLLOWS.....This is the final WORKING THREE FAN control system. I initially had two fans, sequenced with low speed/high speed, which worked, but decided it was unnecessary, plus I had two failures.. the block temperature sensor (fixed), and a pressure switch, which lasted about a month. So I decided that simpler was better. Since I already had three relays (R1,R2,R3) I simply wired them all in parallel with one remote adjustable radiator thermostat to turn the two fans on at one time. When they came on, my radio would go BOOM. I was having a little temperature problem (see under hood mods gallery), and upon more consideration, Decided that my '85 Cadillac 4 tone horns were blocking some air to the radiator, and that my two puller fans were not as effective as they should have been, even with a two fan shroud. So the new plan included adding a third fan (SPAL 10" model number 30102058, pusher - same as my two puller fans) since I'm moving the horns to another location. Still have "two stage" cooling since I added another controller to come on at a different temperature, therefore avoiding an even higher spike in amperage. The wiring diagrams below worked well, but have been abandoned.
SECOND EDITED UPDATE: Update - this wiring has been ABANDONED and modified per REVISION 5 FURTHER DOWN IN THIS GALLERY.EDITED UPDATE: This diagram worked well, but the 10 psi radiator pressure switch failed with only a few hours on it. It began to chatter it's connection, causing the relays to go crazy and fans to intermittently go off and on. This action caused two of the relays to overheat on their spade socket connections. I am abandoning the concept of two speed fans and have rewired the system to only operate at high speed using only the block temperature sensor, the manual switch, and the trinary switch in the A/C system. The following is the original description of the circuits: Wiring diagram for the two speed radiator fan control. When the block sensor gets to 180 degrees, relay 1 is energized, bringing both fans on at half speed. If the radiator pressure reaches 10 PSI, the pressure sensor closes, and Relays 2 and 3 are energized, closing contacts to switch the fans from "series" to "parallel" and they both go to high speed. If air conditioning is turned on, the trinary switch closes from the refrigerant pressure, and both fans come on full speed no matter what else is going on. There is a manual dash switch also, that when switched on, brings both fans on high (like in an emergency if any of the other switches fail.)
Update - this wiring has been ABANDONED and modified per VERSION 5 FURTHER DOWN IN THIS GALLERY.....:::This is a redraw of the "ladder" diagram in a "layout" format for wiring the fan control. Not real neat, but it works.
UPDATE: This is also abandoned and rewired per REVISION 5 below.This is the third and final design for the 3 fan control system. I first started thinking it would be cool to have a pressure switch at 10 psi would assure that the fans would come on (2 fans only), and a block temperature sensor to also turn the fans on. Funny thing was, BOTH sensors died, the pressure sensor in about a week, and the block temp sensor after about 3 months. Switched to TWO mechanical probe/sensors in the radiator (prolly chinese made), and one of them died. So the whole concept changed .. decided to get a Davies Craig electronic two stage control, made in Australia, for the two main puller fans, and mechanical sensor/control to bring on the smaller pusher fan. Pusher comes on at 160 degrees, and the second stage puller comes on at 170 degrees, then 10 seconds later, the third puller fan comes on. Set points were tested in a pot of hot water, so they are right on the money. PLUS, the electronic two stage control has a digital screen that shows the sensor temperature.
THIS WORKS ! New electronic Davies Craig sequenced dual fan controller, along with separate electro/mechanical controller for the third fan, a pusher for the transmission fluid cooler plus added relay so that the fans get full alternator voltage (13.5 volts) when the fans are energized. Noticeable increase in fan speed ! Also include dash mounted override switch in case a fan controller fails
Wiring for interior lighting. Post switch turns on the two pillar lights only. If either door opens or if the headlight switch is twisted to turn on interior lights, the underdash lights and the pillar lights all come on through relay R1. B+ actually is fused out of the fuse block, and not direct to battery.
Since the A/C system has only 4 supply duct connections - therefore 4 active grille outlets, I had already blocked off half of the left underdash outlet to maintain outlet velocity. So when I decided to install a small voltmeter in the unused area (only one left), so I finished sealing off the "voltmeter chamber" from the A/C air.
I suppose this will work out pretty good from a practical standpoint, though a little weird. The wiring will exit the rear of the housing (see previous picture), and I'm having Craig at C & C Sheetmetal cut two 26 Ga. stainless steel tabs to put on each end of the voltmeter. By the way, did you notice the voltmeter is accurate to ONE HUNDREDTH of a volt?
Don't laugh.............please...........It's gonna be cool.... uh huh....Headliner has perforations in it...will be kinda like that Rolls Royce option with "star lights" ($12,000)....AND I just discovered something kinda cool. When the radio is turned up pretty high, the 1,600 watt amp draws momentary more power when "beats/drums/etc." are amplified, and as a result, the voltage drops just slightly on the whole electrical system, and the LEDs "keep the beat".... ahahah.. pretty cool.
OK.. that will work...Still have a little work to do to try to remove that "centerline mark" on the backside of the headliner made with a Tailor's Marker.... some scrubbing involved... it won't "erase" ...This picture doesn't really look like it looks - maybe due to the fact that the LEDs are so dang bright that the camera freaked out and blurred the picture right where the lights shine through the headliner.
Dakota Digital Cruise Control box/interface. Next to the box is the (not installed yet) transmission connector/transmitter to tell the "brains" the speed of the car. Tubing and blue wire in the upper part of the picture is the windshield washer tube, the "warm air feed" from the heater to the hood mounted tachometer to keep the glass from fogging up in cold weather and the tachometer signal wire.
The wiring is threaded through some small holes in the trunk lid behind the support structure and comes out next to the driver's side hinge on the lower left of the picture. You can see the plug on the lower left. Just got another mercury tilt switch to mount on the underside of the trunk lid.
1,600 watt sound system !......Subwoofer volume control mounted under the dash - right under the radio volume knob. Also USB charging port and mini input plug. Small vertical LEDS are security system flashing when armed. The two black 1.8" audio plugs that are tied together under the dash are the two inputs to the radio auxiliaries. One is connected to a blue-tooth receiver and the other is connected to the plug at the bottom of the USB plug under the radio. The reason for that is that my DANG Samsung Sport 5S phone has a defect (they ALL do) that I found out after doing some research on the internet. The blue-tooth transmitter in the phone also transmits a buzzing sound along with the audio signal to the blue-tooth receiver. But when plugged directly into the earpiece plug the sound is crystal clear. By the way, I'll be making a stainless steel radio escutcheon to replace that rubber one that came with the radio.
The standard 1157 tail lights brake lights just didn't seem very bright so I'm adding these red LEDs that are supposed to be five times brighter than a regular incandescent bulb. However I may have to add a relay because the cruise control has to have a ground reading through the incandescent bulb filaments and these offer no resistance for this operation. So I added a high capacity resistor from the brake light connection to ground to fool the cruise control into thinking there was an incandescent bulb rather than LED'
